OK, so now I have better internet connection, and I can post some shots from yesterday.

Today was an easier day – thank goodness – and so I have a little more time too, because we got into our end town by 2pm. But more on that on a separate blog. Now for yesterday…

Our route out of Gubbio took us past the spot where St. Francis is said to have placated the wolf. There’s a church there – built in the 12th Century, and inside two people were praying. There were very old murals on the walls, and a sense of calm. A beautiful chapel.

Peter the day before had broken the strap on one of his poles, so we stopped in at a sports store on the way out of town, where he bought a new set – Nordic walking poles, like Ivan had. Quite different to the poles we all use – thinner, lighter, and connected at the wrists by gloves.

Peter hit the tar with these new poles fairly singing – notice the backward slant of the poles, which is the way they’re meant to be used, as against the perpendicular way we use our normal trekking poles.

We then had several kilometres walking through relatively flat and pretty countryside –

The path then began to climb – and this was the start of a series of hills and mountains that would tucker us out by the end of the day.

At lunchtime we ducked into an Agriturismo along our route –

Elena had prepped them to have lunch prepared – beautiful handmade pasta, wine, and frittata.

We staggered out into the now blazing heat to continue – another 13kms to go, with more mountains to come.

I discovered I had a brace malfunction – my leg brace had slipped down off my knee – and so I found a deserted farmhouse and sat on the front steps and did a little readjustment, which involved taking off my trousers and retightening the brace –

Turned out the farmhouse wasn’t abandoned. The owner of the place – a woman – hearing noises outside (Peter and Ken making wise cracks about my state of undress) opened the door that I was leaning against, took one look down at this semi-naked man with a metal contraption on his leg, gave a little squeal of dismay or disgust, I’m not sure which, (it certainly wasn’t delight),  then slammed the door on me.

This is how I felt about that –

Having fixed the brace malfunction, we quickly moved on.

The paths got steeper –

Angela had hurt her knee climbing out of a steaming bath the day before, and so she was in the van. It was just Ken, Peter and me.

Jennifer and Patty had done a jump and were in front of us. We finally met up with them, impressed that they’d managed to climb some of the steep paths we’d climbed, and not taken the van. Mind you, there was no way the van could get in to where we were…

We finally broke out of the close cover and reached the top of a hill, or a mountain, only to find Elena bounding down to greet us with a bottle of water. We were so glad to see her, because that meant we were close to where we’d be stopping for the night.

Unfortunately there was another big hill to climb first – we climbed up first then took photos of the girls coming up after us… (this photo gives no indication of how long and how steep this hill was.)

We thought at the top of the hill that we would find our hotel, but we discovered it was a further 1.5kms on before we reached the Tenuta di Biscina – a hotel for pilgrims.

It had an amazing view…

It had been a long and very demanding day for us – but we felt good that we’d achieved it.

It’s coming on midnight and so I will make this brief. 

Also, I am in the mountains north of Assisi now, and Internet is sketchy. So I can’t post any of the photos I took today. I will have to do that later. 

Today was another hard slog. We climbed a total of 900m, and descended a total of 650m. Perhaps the biggest toughest climb was right at the end of the day, to reach our hotel.

We are now at Tenuta Di Bascina – only about 30kms from Assisi. 

Magnificent country. 

We are having enormous fun – Ken and I had Patty going about Drop Bears this evening. You know, the vampire koalas that drop from gumtrees and attack you with their fangs. 

I showed her a bunch of scary images of fanged koalas from Google Images. 

Patty cracked up. 

Highlights were stopping in the original 12th century chapel on the outskirts of Gubbio where St,Francis is said to have placated a rogue man eating wolf. The chapel was magnificent. 

Another highlight was having fresh home made pasta from an Agriturismo for lunch. Oh yes and Grappa in our coffee. 

And the Ladies of Leisure making it up a mountainside that nearly killed the rest of us. The girls walked a long way today, through some very tough mountain country. They’re a strong bunch, and getting stronger each day, with their Proseccos and now their firewater infused coffees. 

I’ll have to post photos tomorrow – but in the meantime, here is a shot I took while walking to dinner tonight. We’re staying in a very remote Albergo, with a family run kitchen in an adjoining farmhouse. 

Just beautiful… 

Edited with BlogPad Pro

So far it’s been a gnarly little walk.

But through some of the most stunning countryside you can imagine.

My pictures in no way capture the grandeur and magnificence of some of these vistas. In my new book, Photo Camino, I talk about how hard it is to capture landscapes in photos that fully represent the feeling you have when you look at them.

My pictures of some of the scenery we’re walking through are testament to that failing. But what we’re seeing, and what we’re experiencing, is truly memorable.

As I said earlier, most of us are walking most of it. Some of us are walking all of it. But we all are being swept away with the beauty of it all – and with the spirit of St. Francis which is with us all the way; in the churches, the small shrines along the side of the track, and the history that permeates all the town and villages along this sacred route.

Here are the elevations of the past several days –

Sansepolcro to Citta di Castella –

Citta di Castella to Pietralunga –

Pietralunga to Gubbio –

And here’s what we’ve got coming up –

Gubbio to Valfabbrica –

Valfabbrica to Assisi –

The food along the way is typical Tuscan / Umbrian food – delicious. Lots of handmade pastas with wild boar ragu, grilled meats with rosemary and olive oil, sorbets like you’ve never had before.

We have only seen one other pilgrim so far on the track. And no-one who has come from La Verna. This is the classic St. Francis Way path – from his monastery to his home in Assisi. And it’s a good length too – just under 200kms, which given the terrain is enough.

Elena is proving to be a real sweetheart – we knew she would be, having worked with her in Tuscany last year for the PGS film. She is always smiling and laughing, and nothing is too much trouble.

She’s having to do some jump pick-ups each day with some of the walkers – and sometimes these tracks are tricky to get to in a nine-seater van, but she’s managed admirably.

Everyone seems to be having a great time. Each night we’re staying in beautiful towns, right in the historic centre, in good digs, and we’re eating amazing food. And we find ways to make ourselves laugh which are sometimes completely inappropriate.

I know when I’ve crossed the line when Jennifer frowns at me and says: Now Bill, you’ve gone too far this time…

I strive for that at least once a day.

It’s been great spending time with Peter, Ken, Angela, and Marie again – we had such fun on the Portuguese Camino, and now we’ve picked up where we left off with this one.

Here is Marie doing a yoga stretch –

Meeting Patty has been a total treat. She’s hilarious. She has such a wicked sense of humour. She fitted in immediately. And given that she said she didn’t have time to train before the tour, she’s been an amazing walker. She has got up some hills that had me gasping for air.

I can always pull out an excuse to stop – I take out my camera and pretend to take a photo. And then of course I have to check focus and exposure. And then of course I have to take another one because I’m not happy with the first one… that usually takes a couple of minutes, and by that time I’ve regained my breath, and my strength, and so I continue on, until I find the need to take another photo.

Having Ivan and Giovanna join us too for three days was a very special treat. We miss them now that they’re gone – again they slotted into the group energy immediately, and again, largely by making us laugh so much.

It’s been fun. And it’s not over yet. We have three more days of walking – then we arrive in Assisi in time for their springtime festivities. That should be wonderful.

View out hotel bedroom window this morning. 

So far on this tour we have not had any rain. 

Rest day today, and market day here too in Gubbio. 

Need the rest. I have a chest infection, which has been sapping my energy. 

And tomorrow is another big day. 

But man o man, this is fun! 

Down to brekkie now… then hit the market. 

Edited with BlogPad Pro

Stupid me, thinking that yesterday the hardest day was over.

Today was tough going too – 27kms, and three quarters was up and down mountains again. For those of you who have walked the Camino Frances, imagine this: each day we climb at least 3 O’Cebreros, if that gives you any idea.

Up to the top, then down, then up to the top again, then down, then up to the top again, then down again.

That’s tough, right?

The day started off with sad farewells to Ivan and Giovanna.

But perhaps they will join us on the Celtic Camino tour which we’ll be staging next year. I hope so – because they were totally delightful, and kept us laughing all the time they were with us.

I asked one of our group (who will remain nameless) to take a shot of me with Ivan –

But there was an issue with headroom…

We then headed out of Pietralunga, heading to the beautiful medieval town of Gubbio 27kms away.

Jennifer, Patty and Marie left later, and climbed two of the impossibly high mountains before calling in what I have dubbed The Magic Bus. (Thanks, The Who!)

Believe me, there was no ignominy in calling in the Magic Bus – I was struggling up those steep slopes. I was amazed the ladies made it.

Meanwhile Peter found an abandoned farmhouse and we made ourselves comfortable inside out of the sun. We had jelly beans and dried banana and plenty of water.

I asked Peter to pose in the doorway so I could take a photo –

I told him he looked like a creature with a prehensile tail that drags his knuckles in the dirt –  or a Hawthorn football player. Really the two are interchangeable…

We kept on walking…

Sometime later the Ladies of Leisure joined us for a picnic lunch –

– and I played The Who’s song – The Magic Bus – care of Spotify. Marie got up and started dancing. She surprised us with her sexy moves – and we laughed a lot.

The Ladies of Leisure then retired to a nearby bar for coffee, or maybe it was Prosecco again, I can’t be sure, while the rest of us slogged out the last 10kms in afternoon heat.

We finally got to Gubbio about 5pm – feet very sore and legs almost incapable of walking a further step. We were greeted like old friends by Sonia, a beautiful young lass who was on reception at our luxurious hotel, The Hotel Gattaopne, right in the heart of the historic centre.

For dinner we had fine dining at a restaurant deep in the heart of the historic centre. Beautiful food, exquisite wines, and lots of laughter.

Tomorrow is a much needed rest day. It happens to be Market Day in Gubbio – and after the market we plan to take a funicular railway to a church high on a mountain at the back of the town.

I’ll post photos of d7 at a later time. Right now it’s after midnight, and I’m bushed! Only three more days of walking and we’re in Assisi. Can’t believe it!

Today was always going to be tough – 30kms, without a town in between, with an aggregate climb of nearly 1km – and descent of not much less too.

A lot of steep hills and even stepper descents over a long stretch.

It’s a massive relief to have the van handy to pick up anyone who wants to “jump” a section. We use this term to mean jump some mileage – either start some kilometres into the walk, or when you get tuckered out jump to the nearest bar and have a bottle of Prosecco.

Today though all of us walked most of the way – and some of us walked all of the way.

And Elena was able to pick up some fresh Mozzarella, some fresh hams and bread, so that we could have a picnic about half way.

There were two very stiff climbs today – one of them being right towards the end. And then having arrived at our end stop – Pietrulunga – we discovered a couple of hundred thousand steps that climbed up and up to the main piazza.

Ivan, Peter and I headed straight to the nearest bar and ordered double Camparis and soda and ice. I’m not sure if that’s a girly drink or not, but it was refreshing, colourful, and alcoholic. It ticked all the boxes.

We all have been admiring the way Ivan the Terrible walks. He walks in a Nordic skiing way, and in fact Marie got private lessons from Ivan this morning before heading out.

His method involved loosening the shoulders, dropping the arms until they’re almost vertical, and having the poles reach way back. He says this gives him so much more power – because instead of tensing the upper body, the power comes through the wrists, using the straps on the poles to transfer the power.

I tried it and it works a treat. Very handy going up some of those steep mountains today.

It’s been a very demanding few days, and those that have impressed have been Angela Mitchell and Patty Talbot. They’ve been troopers. Nothing has daunted them. I’ve been amazed at some of the mountains they’ve climbed – ascents that have knackered me.

I expect Peter and Ken to be proficient – and Marie too because she is such an experienced pilgrim… And Ivan and Giovanna are very strong walkers from past Caminos.

Jennifer often surprises me. She tackles the steepest of inclines with equanimity. I think her relaxation helps her.

Together this is a very happy group. Most are past friends, although Patty arrived not knowing anyone, but almost immediately she slotted into our sense of humour, and it seemed like we’d all known her for years.

She brings a wonderful irreverent energy to any conversation or discussion – and she has a smile that lights up a room.

This evening we had a relaxed dinner at a local pizzeria. The pizzas were out of this world. Ivan at the end of the meal produced a bottle of Champagne styled wine from his local region, and we all drank a toast to what great people we all are!

Tomorrow Ivan and Giovanna leave us – they have to return to work – and we’ll all miss them immensely, because they have brought such a levity to this walk. Ivan is always making us laugh – and Giovanna is a quiet beautiful energy.

This is a hard walk – there’s no doubt – but we’re getting through it with an enormous sense of achievement, and we’re having a lot of fun along the way…

( internet lousy here at Pietrulunga. Will post more shots tomorrow.)

Over hill, over dale,
Through bush, through briar,
Over park, over pale,
Through blood, through fire,
I do wander everywhere…

Thanks Billy.

Ahem, I mean William.
Shakespeare.
A Midsummer Night’s Dream.

Today certainly was over hill, and over dale. I’m not sure what a dale is, but I’m pretty damn sure we walked over it. And it felt like it was through blood and fire too.

Today was hard.

Three big hills, and three equally big descents. Only 20.5kms, but it felt more. The hills really tested the legs, and heart and lungs.

But it was beautiful. We left the villa later than we wanted –

-then climbed steep and fast, and then we’d stop for a break and look around at some breathtaking vistas. Literally breathtaking!

We stopped for a picnic lunch at a farm that made Buffalo Mozzarella. This place is famous for its Mozzarella As we walked in some well dressed dudes walked out, carrying fridge bags, stuffed with Mozzarrella. They’d bought the place out. We were pissed. Five minutes sooner, and we would have been able to buy some.

To add to the indignity, the farmhouse dog ran off with my Swannies cap!

We had a picnic beside the farm, and bought some of their other cheeses, which were delicious.

By we, I mean Peter, Ken and Angie, Ivan and Giovanna, and me. The others – Jennifer and Marie and Patty had started off later than us, walked up the hills we struggled up, and were hoed down in an Agriturismo further back having home made pasta and cheeses and chutneys. Oh and wine.

This is our group – the Serious Walkers Group – (not the Let’s Have Lunch at an Agriturismo Group) – in a chestnut forest.

(By the way, an Agriturismo is like an Italian B&B, except they also serve lunches and dinners to passers by who aren’t staying there. They’re particularly fond of pilgrims on this route, and give them cut rates on rooms and food.)

We headed off to complete the day’s walk – the ladies of leisure stayed back to try some more of those delicious cheeses and chutneys, then walked some more, vanned some, and ended up at our end destination – Citta di Castella – at a bar knocking back Prosecco.

We meanwhile detoured past the buffaloes –

– and hit our third straight hill – our legs by now feeling like lead – and then we had a steep descent into the small medieval town.

Peter and Ivan talked almost the entire way today – which really pissed me off because I had trouble breathing, much less talking.

And when we arrived in Citta di Castella there was a show in the main Piazza of vintage Fiats, going back to the original model.

Later we had dinner at a lovely restaurant, and we caught up on what the others had done during the day.

Quite a lot!

Tomorrow is the hardest day of the walk – 30kms, without any town along the way in which to have a meal or drink – and a total ascent of more than 800m.

I know now what that feels like –

But once again the beauty made up for the degree of difficulty. Vistas which don’t photograph well… you just had to be there.

Or not.

I’m sorry I’m not able to respond to each of your comments right now.

I simply don’t have the time.

I’m reading them, and very much appreciating all your thoughts and well wishes and wise cracks too!

Greg – maaaaaate.

But right at the moment I’m fighting off a cold, I need as much sleep as I can get (averaging about five and a half hours at the moment), and my priority at the end of the day, apart from the usual pilgrim things such as laundry, shower etc, is to keep the posts maintained daily.

And each post usually takes over an hour.

So please accept my apologies for not responding at the moment, but each of us appreciates that you’re not only following us, but that you take the trouble to write something.

And I will respond as soon as I can. So keep ’em coming!

It’s huge fun this one, a bit demanding at times… and these next few days will be hard.

Today we were joined by Ivan and Giovanna.

For those of you who have read my book, The Way, My Way, you might remember Ivan the Terrible and his Beautiful Wife Giovanna. They helped me find the scenic route into Burgos on the Camino Frances, and we soon became good friends, and walked together many times thereafter to Santiago.

Since then – two years ago now – we have continued to keep in touch, and when Jennifer and I were in Italy last year, they hosted us at their house near Bergamo, in Northern Italy, and we spent a glorious weekend with them as their guests.

When they heard we were doing the Assisi walk, Ivan contacted me to say that he could only get a few days off work, but he would like to join us and walk a few stages.

He finished work late yesterday, and he and Giovanna drove 400kms in horrible holiday traffic (today is May Day, a big holiday in Europe), and this morning they arrived in Sansepulcro to join our group.

Ivan and Giovanna are the most delightful people, and immediately they slotted into our group – although many felt they knew them already from my book.

They are also very strong walkers, and as we set off I admired the easy relaxed way Ivan walks. And it occurred to me that he relaxes his whole upper body – there’s no tension or effort at all – which gives him an ease of gait which is very difficult to achieve.

Also overnight I received on this blog a message from a very wonderful lady whom I’d met on the Camino Frances. Her name is Sigrid, and she and her husband Roland live in a small town in Austria. Sigrid and I have remained in loose contact since the Camino – but as it turned out she and Roland were in this part of Italy, and so we made an arrangement to meet for lunch at our end stop today – Citerna.

Sigrid and Roland were there to meet us – and Sigrid rushed up to greet me.

Just with meeting up with Ivan and Giovanna this morning, these are friendships forged by the intensity of the Camino, and the commonality of beliefs, which transcend boundaries of nationality, gender, and indeed time.

I spent quite a bit of time on the Camino Frances with Ivan and Giovanna, but only a few days with Sigrid. And yet the strength of the bonds are the same. And they will last.

Ivan and Giovanna peeled off to rest up while we all had a glorious lunch in a beautiful restaurant with a view out over the surrounding plains and hills. Sigrid and Roland finally had to leave – but I know I will see them again, and perhaps Sigrid on the Camino again – one day very soon.

There are no hotels in Citerna – it’s a small picture postcard historic hilltop town – but about 1km down the road is a beautiful Umbrian villa, that is a hotel and restaurant.

In fact, the man that runs the place, Mauro, is a highly accomplished chef, and the meal we had tonight was perhaps the best we’ve had to far –

– handmade tagliatelle pasta with leeks and hazelnuts (beautiful!), then rolled and grilled pork wrapped in prosciutto, then chocolate mousse with a wild berry sauce – the mousse unlike anything I’ve ever tasted before.

It was Ivan and Giovanna’s 40th anniversary when they first met, so we toasted them. They are dear friends and wonderful people. And I will always remember Sigrid’s greeting when we met again today. I’m very fortunate to have such solid friends.

Tomorrow begins three days of hard walking. Long distances, and big hills and valleys. I have started to develop a blister on my right heel. It won’t stop me.

The spirit of St. Francis is all around us. We can feel it in the churches we visit, in the trails we walk. Jennifer took Marie, Patty and Angela to a very sacred Franciscan monastery at a hilltop town called Montecasale. They didn’t walk the fist leg of the stage today, because of their visit to this monastery.

But that’s all part of this pilgrimage. It’s not about walking every kilometre with your backpack – it’s about taking in the spirit of St. Francis. Which is what the ladies did this morning, instead of walking.

Here are some shots of our walk later in the day…

I won’t drag this out.

Let me tell you what happened.

I kept climbing up – but slowly because it was so steep. I managed to get past one wall of fallen timber and brush, and traversed the side of the mountain about 20m before coming to another wall, which I couldn’t get over.

So I climbed up the hill further.

I kept on looking for a track, and each time I thought I’d found one, I climbed up to find that it was nothing more than a ridge.

But then I noticed on my GPS app a series of tiny crosses, nearly at the top of the mountain. I wasn’t sure what that meant, but I hoped it was markings of a track. I noticed that it looped round, and eventually met up with the pilgrim track – the GPX files of which I’d loaded previously.

I worried though that it might be out of date, or that the track had been blocked or washed away like the one further down.

But I had no choice so I kept climbing, kept climbing, and then up ahead I saw a wooden cross – like a signpost.

You have no idea how happy I was. I scrabbled up, and sure enough, it was a track, no wider than a goat path.

But finally I had a way of getting back to the pilgrim track.

I followed this path around the top of the mountain, and then down a sheer descent. All that distance I’d climbed up, I now had to climb down.

The track eventually took me back down to stream-level, and there was Peter Landers waiting for me standing by an old quarry .

I yelled out to him: Maaaaaate.
He yelled back: Maaaaaaate.

The others were waiting further along, and we continued out walk. That whole ordeal had taken nearly two hours.

I walked with Patty for some distance, through some beautiful countryside –

We had a good leisurely chat as the others steamed ahead to meet up with Elena and the van. The plan had been for Elena to meet us at the half-way point with some lunch.

By the time we arrived, Elena had parked by the river and had laid out a beautiful picnic lunch of local cheeses, hams, fresh salads and bread.

It wasn’t a particularly scenic spot to park, but it was practical – being the earliest place on our track where she could drive up to us in the vehicle. And after what we’d been through, we needed food and water, and we weren’t interested in a view.

After a quick lunch we headed off again – across the bridge, then through flatter easier country, but no less beautiful.

We arrived late into Sansepulcoro, and had a dinner in a small Osteria – handmade pastas with wild boar sauce, grilled lamb Tuscan style, and gorgeous wines. Oh and we finished the night with a bottle of Vin Santo dessert wine, and a basket of biscuits to go with it.

During the course of the dinner we recounted our own versions of the eventful morning – and we laughed and we ate and we laughed and we drank and the stories became broader and funnier in the telling.

What a wonderful way to finish off an incredible day…