Turkey d5 / Istanbul / a whirling day ~

The day started at 4:44am. That’s what it said on the beside clock when the Call to Prayer wailed out in the dark.

The hotel we’re staying in is just around the corner from one of the most famous Islamic mosques in the world – the Blue Mosque.

The Blue Mosque before dawn

I wanted to film at the mosque at the dawn prayer time, so somehow I coerced my wife to get up and join me. She did a pretty good job at pretending she was awake for the next two hours, until the sun came up and she got a coffee.

Visitors hours didn’t start till 8:30am, but the pre-dawn prayers were in session at 5am, so I walked in. The security guard gave me a nod of approval, and I began filming.

Inside the mosque

There was only a small group of worshippers at that time of the morning, and after they’d finished their service, which was eerie and mesmerising, they then left.

I had the entire Blue Mosque all to my self.

Inside the mosque - ceiling

I completed the filming I wanted to do, then sought out a coffee place to resuscitate my wife, who would have passed an audition for The Walking Dead.

me outside mosque with camera

We had breakfast, had a twenty minute kip, then went out on what turned out to be a 10km walk around Istanbul.

We were scammed by a shoe shine guy – see earlier post – and two taxis, so decided to walk everywhere.

Got back with less than an hour to spare before having to go out to film a ceremony organised by a religious group that follows the philosophies and teachings of the ancient mystic and poet, Rumi.

We had to drive to the outskirts of Istanbul, to a hall in a rough part of town.

burned out car

For ninety minutes one of the venerated scholars of the group talked about Rumi’s teachings, about the importance of the individual mind – and not blindly following ill informed doctrine.

He said that in the Qur’an, there is no justification for violence of any kind. Rumi advocates love in every manifestation ~

Whirling dervish pre ceremony

After the address there was then fifteen minutes of the most amazing chanting, and then the Whirling Dervishes walked in. By this stage there must have been about 250 people in the hall, who’d come to watch.

The Dervishes began their ritual – it’s not a dance, it is a very disciplined religious ceremony – and I found it to be completely mesmerising. I filmed a terrific sequence.

Whirling Dervishes.2

This was not some tourist event by the way, this was the real deal. Those who were in attendance were worshippers and followers of Rumi. We were the only blow-ins.

I will write a separate blog about the Whirling Dervishes – what they do, and the significance of it all – in another post in a few days.

Tomorrow I interview a descendant of Rumi, a woman who keeps his philosophies and teachings alive in this modern world – and then we fly to Konya, the spiritual heart of Turkey – the headquarters for Sufis, the mystic tradition of Islam.

It’s going to be a busy few days coming up!

Whirling Dervish 1

The Istanbul Shoe Shine Scam ~

I don’t scam easily.

I’ve traveled a lot, and I’ve met all kinds of scammers, but today they got me.

It goes like this –

You’re walking along the street. Up ahead is a shoe shine guy, with all his kit. Suddenly he walks off, but accidentally drops one of his brushes, without realising.

You, being a nice person, pick it up and catch up to him, and give it to him.

The shoe shine guy of course is incredibly grateful, and as a gesture of good will offers to shine your shoes for free.

In this instance, my wife was wearing dirty boots – accumulated over two weeks of walking the Via di Francesco in Umbria.

Oh, she says, I need my boots cleaned.

So the shoe shine guy cleans her boots.

And then he demands money.

I had walked away by this time, and didn’t realise that a financial transaction was in process.

The shoe shine guy was demanding 20 Turkish Lire..

Outrageous.

My wife, being a person of purer heart than me, gladly hands over a 20Lr note.

I meanwhile wander back, realise what’s happened, realise immediately that the whole thing was a set-up and a scam, and demand the money back.

My wife then starts abusing me and telling me I’m heartless, and she would gladly pay 20Lr for her boots to be cleaned.

I ask my wife if she knows how much 20Lr is worth in Australian dollars.

She doesn’t.

(It’s Au$10!)

I ask if she knows how much 20Lr is worth in Euros.

She doesn’t.

(It’s €7)

I tell her that for $10 Australian, I would not only clean her boots but I would polish her nails and clean her teeth as well.

She tells me that I should open my heart and be more generous.

I’m working on it…

Anyway, she said, it wasn’t a scam.

Later, as we were walking through a tourist area, the same thing happened.

A shoe shine guy accidentally dropped his brush in front of us as he was walking off – without him apparently realising.

I stepped over it and yelled out to him: Hey mate, you dropped your brush. You want your shoes shined?

My wife admonished me severely…

Shoe shine guy

Mother Ganga Tour – a heads up

I’ve just posted on the Gone Tours website some preparatory information for those of you who are coming on the Indian tour – the Mother Ganga tour.

Here’s the link:
http://gonetours.com/2015/05/14/mother-ganga-tour-a-heads-up/

For those of you who are interested in joining us, please let me know soon. We will have to close it off shortly.

cow on bridge

Turkey d4 / Istanbul / We start filming ~

Waited until good light this evening to start filming –

Around the spectacular Blue Mosque.

Tomorrow we shoot Whirling Dervishes. I’m fascinated by their process, and the way it raises their vibrational energies. I am eager to learn more.

Feeling much better now. The coughing is almost gone – except for when I spoke to Ken Mitchell on the phone earlier this morning, and got myself into a coughing fit.

He reckoned I only cough before I tell a porkey….
(Cockney rhyming slang: pork pie = lie)

I told him he’s an old horse and cart…
(Cockney rhyming slang: horse and cart = fart)

Blue Mosque

Assisi / The tour in pics / pt1 ~

Because of lousy internet in many of the places along the way, it was not possible to post all the shots I wanted to –

Also, it’s not possible for me to fully visualise the majesty of this walk. It was magnificent. Every day we climbed mountains and looked across valleys to distant farmlands and castles and villas and more misty hills and mountains – and we were often left speechless by the sheer beauty of it.

On this walk there wasn’t one ugly day – well, except for the day when I took my trousers off to adjust my brace.

That wasn’t pretty.

So here now is the first part of a small selection of shots that for me encapsulate the spirit of the tour –

They’re by no means the best shots I took – I’ll post a separate blog of the shots I like the most – but they document moments which hopefully will jog memories for us.

Also, I missed a lot of shots of stuff that happened which I wasn’t witness to – Patty for instance riding down a freeway embankment on a wheely bin. Wish I’d photographed that! But when that happened I was climbing halfway up a mountain trying to get around a timber blockade.

Anyway, this is the first part of these disparate shots – and some are desperate too! – and as I say, they haven’t been selected for their photographic virtuosity, but to tell stories that mean something to those of us who did the walk…

I’ll do the second half in the next day or so…

I would like to add: To Ken, Angela, Peter, Marie, Patty, Ivan and Giovanna, Elena, and Jennifer, I’d like to thank you for making this tour something that will live with me forever.

BarnaclesThe group at La VernaThe Guard of honourMarie at signpostAngela with flowersWalking into PSSCarrying Peter's bagTimber crossing our pathPeter at quarryFirst picnic by bridgeDown woodland pathKen and Peter by grassGiovanna, Jen and IvanPeter seeing GodWalking to CiternaWalking to Citerna wsSigrid greeting meKen, glasses, and PeteLeaving CiternaDistant villagePete waving polesIvan and GiovannaIn chestnut forestPete taking photo with daisiespilgrims on road.WSDog with swannies capPicnic without mozzarellaBuffaloWalking up hillWalking down trackIvan restingWalking down track.2Angie by Citta di Castelloceremony at churchFiat exhibitionIn Cita di Castella

Turkey d3 / Istanbul / checking locations ~

I needed a slow day today.

Slept nine hours, and my coughing has now virtually ceased. All I needed was rest.

Spent the morning checking locations – in particular at the Blue Mosque, one of the most famous Islamic mosques in the world.

Blue Mosque

Inside Blue Mosque

Changing lightbulb in Blue Mosque

Across from the Blue Mosque is the Hagia Sophia, one of the oldest religious structures in the world –

Hagia Sophia

Had lunch then with Zeyno and her business partner Fatih, and we discussed the coming days, and our trip to Konya at the end of the week. Here’s what we ate: Chicken, chicken, chicken, lamb, and bread.

Guess which is which…

bread

Lamb

Chicken.3

Chicken.2

Chicken

The chicken was flamed grilled, and the bread was freshly baked from a clay oven under the restaurant. It had to be pierced with a knife to let the steam out. Delicious!

On Thursday night we’re to film some Whirling Dervishes, and on Friday I’m to interview a distant descendant of Rumi, the 14th century poetic and mystic. Friday as well we fly to Konya, which is regarded as the spiritual heart of Turkey.

This afternoon Jennifer and I went for a walk around the city, and I took some photos in the bazaars. Unfortunately I didn’t find the bazaar very interesting visually, but what caught my eye were some of the clothing models outside the stands and stores…

Models

Models.2

Models 3

Models.4

Models.6

Oh alright – here are a couple of boring bazaar shots…

Turkish Delight

Spice markets

Grand bazaar

Tomorrow we begin filming – looking forward to getting into it!

India tour – getting closer

The Assisi Tour is now over, and we’re starting to think of the next one –

The Mother Ganga Tour, in September.

We are now finalising arrangements – organising hotel rooms and flights – and there are still places available – so if you wish to come and you haven’t already placed a deposit, please get in touch and I can connect you with my travel agent Duncan Ford, who handles the money.

Here’s my email:
bill@gonetours.com

The Indian Tour promises to be amazing – check the website for the itinerary.

http://gonetours.com/mother-ganga-tour-sept-2015/

Looking forward, we’re considering a Celtic Camino next April / May 2016 – where we walk around various “rings” on the west coast of Ireland, culminating at the spectacular Cliffs of Moher.

Whether we do that tour or not will depend on the level of interest.

Sadhu on Rishikesh bridge

Turkey d1+2 / Istanbul

Remind me never to do this again.

Finish a tour, then hop on a plane and go somewhere else.

You really need time to settle, take stock of what just happened, get your energy reserves back, and allow your soul to catch up to your corporeal body.

In my case, my coughing got worse towards the end of the walk, and by the time I got to Assisi I was no fun to be around. I would get into a coughing fit which would be hard to stop.

I just needed rest time.

I didn’t get it. We headed straight to Rome, and then to an early flight to Turkey. Got off the plane, had 45 minutes rest at the hotel, then had to hop in a taxi to meet with the lovely lady who is organising our time here for the PGS film.

Her name is Zeyno, and I will tell you more about her later. She runs a karmic healing centre in Istanbul, and uses past lives to find out what’s wrong with you, and how you can sort yourself out.

Zeyno was introduced to us through Joni Patry, in Dallas – the Vedic Astrologer.

Dallas continues to have resonances – and we’re not finished with Dallas yet, not by a long shot.

Slept nine hours last night, dosed up with medicines from Marie (thank you Marie!) and woke this morning feeling half human. Which is better than the quarter human I’ve been feeling these past few days.

Today will be a slow day. We have an interview lined up at about 3pm, and I want to scout some filming locations, in particular the Blue Mosque.

The tour is starting to resonate. I need time to reflect on what we did. It was an intense and profound walk, amidst all the fun and laughter, because there was plenty of that. But the walk itself, its meaning, and some of the places we visited, will stay with me a very long time.

I thought I would post this photo I took this morning at breakfast. These two Muslim ladies came in, with their identical handbags. I asked them for a photo, and of course I wanted to position them a particular way. I made the mistake of touching one of them on the arm, to put her in position. It was like I’d touched her with a cattle prod.

Urgh…

I’ll have to readjust to Middle Eastern mores.

Love the shot though…

Ladies in breakfast room

All Good Things Come To An End!

Angie, you and Ken made the tour very special. Thank you!

Angela Mitchell's avatarA culmination of thoughts

What a grand fun time all of us pilgrims had on the Via de Francesco walking tour organised by Bill and Jen.

And it was so good that yesterday morning it was very hard to say farewell to each other.

Somehow or other the toughness of going up and up and then down and down has disappeared.

But I feel that the toughness of saying goodbye might be staying with me for a little while yet.

I

image

It was a drawn out good-bye, we had to make the most of it starting with our last brekkie together.

What a better way to mark the occasion than to pose for a group photo in front of our table. We sat around many tables over the last two weeks sharing food, drinking wine, chatting and laughing.

It was the way we connected – always at breakfast, always at dinner and when we…

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