Here are some pictures from the road, just recently.
Some on Route 66 – cutting through from Vegas through to Palm Springs through the Mojave Preserve, then Joshua Tree and Twenty-Nine Palms.
Beautiful country –
When I last lived in Houston, 15 years ago, I would typically go riding with a few buddies on Sunday mornings or perhaps all day. We would pick some out in the country destination for breakfast or lunch. The rides and the fellowship were always great.
I bought my current bike last August, but the winter was too cold and wet to get much riding in. I had the bike in the country town where i was living north of Houston as you might know from an earlier blog. I brought it to Houston last Thursday since I will be moving into my condo in a couple of weeks and wanted it here full time. Well, today, I did my first Sunday morning ride in 15 years, and with one of my oldest biker buddies, his wife and his neighbor from Norway. Joe is one of my two closest friends…
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I have to leave Vegas.
There’s a foul energy here that’s making me not well.
I’ve been around. I’ve seen a lot of sleazy stuff, believe me. There’s not much I haven’t seen. I’m not a prude. By no means… Consenting adults, and all that stuff.
But there’s something about this place that saps my soul. Etches it. Leeches it.
Or tries to.
We came in yesterday afternoon. A stopover from Provo in Utah, heading to Palm Springs. It was too long a haul in one day. We had to break it up. And looking at a map, there weren’t many options. So Vegas it was.
My wife and I had been to Vegas before. We were living in LA at the time, and thought we’d take our kids there for Easter. We tried to buy them Easter eggs. It wasn’t possible. We discovered that Las Vegas doesn’t celebrate Easter at all. No acknowledgement of it.
My wife and I aren’t church goers. We follow no established religious faith. But Easter is Easter. And some eggs for the kids, and a certain respect for what Easter represents, is always appropriate.
But in Vegas, Easter doesn’t exist.
That was then. We stayed on the Strip back then, in one of those very large fancy Casinos.
I don’t gamble. I gamble with my work every day. I don’t need to put coins in a slot. I think gambling is throwing money away. I have real issues with the way gambling is advertised in Australia. Gambling has become a huge social problem.
If you’ve got the money to lose and you want to gamble, then fine. Consenting adults and all that stuff. But gambling in Australia, and probably in the US as well, is targeted at lower income earners who don’t have the money to lose.
It plays on their hopes. On their dreams. On their belief that the next coin in the slot, the next throw of the dice, is going to hit the jackpot. Make it all worthwhile.
The House always wins in the long run.
Dummy.
This trip I didn’t want to go back to the Strip, with all that glitz. I wanted to get a sense of the old Vegas, when Sinatra and Dean Martin and those guys were kings.
So I booked us into a hotel on Fremont Street, in downtown Vegas. It was built in 1901, and called the Golden Gate Hotel & Casino, situated right opposite the original Greyhound Bus Depot. I love the architecture and design of that era.
This would be cool, I thought.
And it was cool.
Walking through to the lobby, you are channeled through the Casino, of course, and I noticed the beautiful old fashioned slot machines with leather chairs and foot stools. As a piece of design, they were wonderful.
The room had chunky iron taps in the bathroom, and tiling of the era. Again, beautiful.
As it turned out, the hotel was at the top of what was called the Fremont Street Experience – a closed walkway which straddles about three blocks – about half a mile – covered by a canopy which at night becomes an extraordinary light show.
We had dinner in a Casino buffet – subsidised by gambling, it was an amazing “all you can eat” for $13.99. Steaks cooked to order, crab, shrimp, delectable desserts, bottomless drinks. What they lose on the buffet, they more than make up in the Casino.
I went out last night to go to the drug store and take some photos – and at 10pm all the lights of the surrounding Casinos and shops dimmed, and the The Fremont Street Experience began.
There were massive speakers all through the walkway, and The Who’s Tommy – Pinball Wizard boomed out. Some drunk bikers started playing air guitar. Above on the canopy, an extraordinary light-show started up. Everyone stopped and stared upwards. Out came the cellphones to record it all.
It lasted about five minutes, and it was an amazing spectacle. And then the lights of the Casinos came back up again, and everyone resumed normal programming.
Normal programming was getting shitfaced and ogling the sexy girl/dancers and the Chippendale-esque men with their buffed bodies and socks down their fronts.
I didn’t need to be there.
I’d gone out to get some Vitamin C from Walgreens. I was coming down with something. Vegas had attacked my immune system.
I took the photos I wanted to take, got my Vit C, and headed back to the hotel room where Jennifer was happily reading.
There are places on this earth that have beatific energies. Santiago is one of them. Lourdes is another. So too are the Himalayas. And the Ganges.
And following the laws of nature – Newton’s Third Law of Motion – that for each force there is an equal and opposite force; for each energy there is an equal and opposite energy – then there are places on this earth that have foul energies.
For me, Las Vegas is such a place.
I have to leave. I’ve seen what I wanted to see. I’ve taken my photos and I’ve had a rest. Now it’s time to continue my journey…
It’s been over a year now since I walked the Camino Frances, and the changes that I experienced during the walk are still within me. Here’s an example:
My wife Jennifer and I are traveling through the US at the moment. It’s a massive road trip – already we’ve covered more than 3,000mls in ten days.
In the past, whenever I’ve traveled, I’ve always stayed in good digs. And by good, I don’t mean expensive good, I mean reasonably priced good.
One of the things that terrified me before I walked the Camino was staying in albergues. The notion of dorm styled accommodation didn’t sit well with me. I liked my privacy, my creature comforts, and my security. I liked my own bathroom. I knew I’d have none of these sleeping in an albergue.
My first night in St. Jean Pied de Port was spent in an albergue. And I continued to sleep in albergues for the majority of the walk. I liked the camaraderie, the friendships formed, the discussions over communal dinners – and I liked the feeling of stepping outside my normal pattern of behaviour. Doing something different. Challenging myself.
Yes I stayed in a Parador once – and I loved it. I was sore and exhausted, and I needed it. And I stayed in hotels now and again too, when I needed privacy and space.
I’m not one to extoll the virtues of albergues because I believe it makes the pilgrimage more pure. I think that’s a complete nonsense. Whether you sleep in Paradors or Church cloisters, it makes no difference. You’re still a pilgrim.
Cut back to: My US road trip.
A couple of nights ago Jennifer and I stayed in a forty buck a night motel in a small sleepy town in Mountain Home, Idaho. It was called the Highlander Motel, and I know I would not have stayed there if I hadn’t walked the Camino.
There was a Best Western a mile away – costing $129 a night. Before the Camino, I would have stayed there, no question.
But I drove in to the Highlander, walked into reception, and was given a boisterously warm welcome by the manager, an Indian fellow by the name of Jalan Patel. I asked him where in India he came from – he told me a village north of Bombay – and it turned out I’d once driven through that village.
It must have been very strange for him to be talking to an Australian in Idaho about his ancestral home in Bombay. For me, it was rewarding to be greeted so warmly, and to find a personal connection with the fellow.
I asked to see a room and he gave me a key.
The room was fine. There was no reason not to stay there, other than it was cheap. And that thought – that fear – defines one of my changes post Camino.
In my work as a filmmaker, I’ve had to stay in some dives, let me tell you. Early in my career when I was making documentaries, I traveled all around Australia, all around the world, and the work took me to some very remote places where there was little or no choice as to where I slept.
I remember once sleeping in shearers quarters in the Outback, with a huge red-belly black snake under the bed. It lived there. I had to be careful where I put my feet when I got up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom. I discovered the red-belly black snake often shifted to the cooler bathroom at night.
The other side of the coin is that in my life as a movie director, I’ve stayed in some of the most luxurious hotels in the world. For two months, Warner Bros put me up in a five star hotel on Park Avenue in New York. The suite had four bathrooms, all with marble floors and gold taps. And I was there by myself. Try as I might, I couldn’t use all four bathrooms at the same time.
The motel room in Mountain Home Idaho had everything I needed:
The swimming pool was not really suitable for swimming, unless you were a frog or a mosquito larva.
The grounds needed tending, admittedly –
But in a corner for some inexplicable reason there was a patch of green grass complete with sprinkler.
And I liked the signage out front.
As I was about to leave, I swapped cricket stories with Mr. Patel who was upstairs collecting the linen from the rooms that had checked out.
The Camino has taught me that there’s something wonderful in simplicity, and thrift.
The Highlander Motel didn’t have four bathrooms with marble floors. It didn’t have gold taps. But it had a firm bed with clean sheets, it had free wifi that worked and was fast, it had good bedside light and power outlets where I didn’t have to shift a bed to plug in my laptop.
And it was $41 for the night, including taxes.
The way I looked at it, It was way better than some of the albergues I’d stayed in. It had everything I needed for a good night’s rest.
If I hadn’t walked the Camino, I would have stayed in the Best Western. I wouldn’t have met Mr. Patel, I wouldn’t have talked cricket, and I wouldn’t have had nearly as good a time…
It’s still early stages for the Assisi Tour, which we expect to host in April next year.
We’ve yet to do a full scout, and work out an itinerary and cost, but essentially we see it as a two week walk from Florence to Assisi via Perugia, then to Rome. That entire route is about 350kms, and we may have to van some of the last section into Rome.
I’ve now done a count of those of you who’ve already put up your hand to come, subject obviously to cost, itinerary etc. We’re sitting at 10 – and I wouldn’t want too many more, because from the experience of the Portuguese Camino, these kind of tours work best when the numbers are small. There’s a deeper connection between us all.
So can I ask – can you please let me know if you’re interested in coming. Email me on:
billpgsblog@gmail.com
I understand that you might not proceed with a booking because of cost, timing, personal commitments etc – but a tentative indication would be helpful for me at this stage.
Jennifer and I plan to do a full scout, subject to my work commitments, before Christmas – so we’ll have an itinerary and costing out shortly thereafter.
I think the tour will be an incredible experience –
This morning I was at our country house and outside having coffee with Bill Bennett, via is blog. As most of you know, Bill is an Austalian film producer and director, author, and photographer and all round accomplished guy. We became great friends, half a world away last year through our respective blos, and then met person to person in April as we walked part of the Portuguese Camino from Porto, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. And finally, he is in the states raising money for a new film he is directing on what he calls Personal Guidence System (Intuition). Jill and I are his first investors. We met again in Palm Springs, California last week with Jill. A great time was had by all.
But back to this morning. After a little communication back and forth, I realized how great Bill is at finding interest in little everyday…
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In November of 2012, for lack of a more desired movie, we watched “The Way”. Twenty minutes into it, we knew we would walk the Camino.
I joined Ivar’s forum to do research on our then upcoming Aug/Sept 2013 Camino and ran across some guy’s “Thoughts of my first ten days on the Camino”. It was Bill. His writing was so engaging that I started following him and looked forward to the daily posts.
Soon we were to learn that Bill was writing a book. When we came back from the Camino I bought his book and we both thoroughly enjoyed it At times it was hilarious and at others you felt his pain.
Next he decided to lead a tour. Dale and I would have loved to have been a part of the Portuguese Tour but couldn’t do another so soon after the first Camino. We had to do the tour through the posts of those able to go.
Over the last twelve months through the bantering and posts, I’ve grown to feel like we are family.
It was so exciting finding out THEY were coming to the USA. I’d discovered that Bill likes the works of the director, David Lynch and that the series “Twin Peaks” was one of his favorites. Was hoping I had to a chance to meet them as the series was shot about 30 minutes drive from my home.
One of the well known comments of the series was about having “cherry pie and a damn good cup of coffee.” Turns out Bill wanted to have dinner at that diner and we were going to get to meet him and Jen.
When you walk the Camino, you don’t know if the Camino family you make (those you walk with off and on) are rich or poor, famous or regular Joes. The heads of what I have now been considering my Camino family are a renowned actress and a famous director/producer/writer. What was I thinking!
We had been “talking” for over a year, albeit on the internet, and I felt they were family. The closer it got the more excited I was getting and posted so. Steve jokingly told me not to get too excited and not to make Bill’s head any bigger than it was.
Also I remember Bill saying something about someone might be thinking Bill was full of himself or something on that order. Could I be wrong about them? We were to meet them at 6:30 at the diner. As they approached I knew my PGS was right. They are both the most down to earth, genuine people.
Jennifer has the most beautiful infectious smile. Over the next 27 hours there was much food, laughter and wine.
We were nearly kicked out of two restaurants. The diner is still a diner but will always be the “Twin Peaks diner with cherry pie and a damn good cup of coffee.”
As someone in Spain once told us “the coffee in America is like dishwater”. The coffee in the diner is good to Americans but to the rest of the world – very weak. At 8:30 they told us the diner closed at 8PM. Hint! Hint! Leave!
We walked down to the next bar and enjoyed a couple bottles of wine. We decided to meet the next morning at the original Starbucks in downtown Seattle.
Upon arriving, Dale’s PGS must have been working as we got a parking spot right across from the Starbucks. Very unusual to find parking, much less free parking. We worried for awhile that it might not be a parking spot. Bill paid $29 for two hours of parking.
We then enjoyed Starbucks and walking through Pike Place market. We had breakfast overlooking Puget Sound, saw the famous fish throwing, Rachel the pig, and saw one of my favorite Mariner baseball players (Jay Buhner) being interviewed.
Bill had his first beef jerky, ever. It was then decided we would drive back to Snoqualmie and see the Falls.
Bill’s PGS was working strong and he got the best parking spot. After seeing the Falls from the top we then walked down to the bottom for a good view upwards. The problem there is you have to climb back up.
Needed a drink so after passing on the Lodge which has been remodeled since it’s use on the tv show and no longer has good vibes, we went to a little hole in the wall bar in downtown Snoqualmie.
After a drink it was decided we would have barbecue and ribs in Issaquah for dinner. We learned a lot about Australia and about PGS, the film during dinner. It is said that Pilgrims have a glow about them. Bill and Jen have a glow about them that I think has been there for 30+ years. They truly are a delightful couple.
Soon the restaurant was stacking chairs and sweeping up. Hint! Hint! Leave!
The 27 hours we spent eating, drinking, talking, drinking, sightseeing, drinking and hiking were some of the most fun and enjoyable times ever. The world needs the PGS film and the best person to bring it to us is Bill. For anyone with the means to support the film, you won’t be sorry.
I know we’ll be seeing each other again soon.
With love
Lynda and Dale
For the past two days Jennifer and I have been in Twin Peaks country.
Twin Peaks was filmed largely around Snoqualmie and North Bend, small logging communities about 50kms east of Seattle, in Washington State.
Our hosts during this stay were Lynda Lozner and Dale, her husband. Lynda has been very active on the blog almost from the start – and when she heard we were coming to the US she contacted me to see if we were coming up their way.
We met at the Tweed Cafe, now known as the Twin Peaks Cafe. If you’ve seen the tv series, this is where the Kyle MacLachlan character, an FBI agent, used to have his cherry pie and a damn fine cup of coffee.
Lynda and Dale greeted us at the cafe like long lost friends – huge hugs and laughter. They also gave us each a welcome pack full of local goodies, including coffee cups from the diner, which will be wonderful mementos.
This was our waitress – a lovely lass who very patiently allowed me to film the cheery pie, after she’d cut it, and with just the right amount of cherry dripping out.
We stayed until the diner closed and we were kicked out, then we continued our talking in a nearby bar.
The crazy thing about this blog is that when I finally get to meet some of you, I feel as though I’ve known you for yonks, yet of course you’re complete strangers. That was the case with Michael and Kathryn Schelsinger in Newport, Jill in Palm Springs, and now Dale and Lynda in Washington State.
The next day we drove into Seattle and met at the famous market – Pike Place. This is where Starbucks started up, and we dutifully had a coffee at the very first original Starbucks – a tiny dump of a place just opposite the markets.
There was a line of tourists out the door who wanted to see where this coffee empire started.
We then walked through the market – one of the great markets of the world – and had breakfast overlooking Puget Sound –
(the reason this shot below is so crappy is because I gave my camera to a woman sitting at the next booth and even though I set the exposure and focus correctly, she somehow managed to mess it up… and let’s not mention the headroom…)
We then drove to Snoqualmie, to visit the waterfall and the creepy lodge made famous in Twin Peaks.
We walked down to the bottom of the falls where several Japanese were taking photos – of course.
Then we walked back up to the top, which was considerably more difficult than walking down – then later that day we met up for dinner. Dinner was at Stan’s BBQ smokehouse in Issaquah –
I ordered the “Who’s your Daddy,” which consisted of enough meat to feed a small African nation. This photo below does not give you any indication of how big the portion was… there were three sausages hidden underneath the half pound of brisket.
Again we talked. We talked about the Camino, and we talked about intuition. Dale said he wasn’t at all intuitive. I asked him whether, when he first met Lynda, he’d had a gut feeling that this was the gal for him.
He said that yes, he definitely felt very strongly that she was. That’s your intuition, I told him, telling you you’ve met your life partner. Dale pondered this, and finally had to agree.
Lynda and Dale walked the Camino Frances last August, and it’s safe to say they haven’t been the same since. It’s had a profound impact on them. So much so that they’ve downsized, and are restructuring their life so they can walk more Caminos. They’ve even put their hand up to come on the Assisi Tour, should things work out.
Lynda, in anticipation of our coming, had done extensive research on Australia, Mudgee, and Jennifer and me. She and Dale had watched a few of my movies, and they knew all about Jennifer’s former life as an accomplished actress.
They both asked us a bunch of questions, which we were more than happy to answer, as best we could. They wanted to know all about Vegemite and Aussie Rules, and Dale even knew more than me about the coming game against the Gold Coast Suns!
They made us feel very special.
We said our goodbyes outside Stan’s BBQ and Jennifer and I walked away feeling that we’d met two very wonderful and courageous people – two people with a driving zest for life, and an extraordinary generosity of spirt.
(Lynda has prepared a guest post detailing her view of our two days together. I will put that up the blog tomorrow…)
Angie and her husband Ken joined us on the recent Camino Portuguese Tour.
Angie is Julie Landers’ sister. Ken and Julie’s husband Peter are great mates. Unlike Peter and Julie though, Angie and Ken had never walked a Camino before. The Portuguese Way was their first.
Jennifer and I were a little concerned as to how they would manage. They’d be the first to admit that they’re no longer spring chickens. However they surprised us – in fact everyone on the tour was surprised at how well they handled what ended up being a tough little walk.
Being friends of the Landers Express (the steam engines being Peter and Julie) they were unkindly dubbed by some as the Landers’ Cabooses. In fact they weren’t dragged along by the Locomotive Express (to use phraseology from Jethro Tull), they didn’t coast in anyone’s slipstream. They nailed it each day – keeping up with Peter and Julie, which was no mean feat, let me tell you. I couldn’t keep up with the Landers Express.
Ken too suffered from a gammy knee, yet he never complained, and he never allowed it to slow him down. You never saw him in the van. Ken and Angie were impressive pilgrims.
On returning I asked Angie to write a guest blog. Here’s what she sent me overnight:
ANGIE MITCHELL – GUEST BLOG
I am writing as a guest blog writer, invited by Bill to put pen to paper about my journey on the Camino Portugese in April this year.
I was quick to tell Bill at the time that I am more into report writing and parenting articles, (my paid job involved a lot of report writing /parenting articles and I actually was very good at these genres I must say), and I am not sure about putting myself out there and inwardly thinking, OMG Bill how can I possibly write anywhere near the standard of humour and creativity that you seem to manage late at night or early in the morning after a long day of walking. Yes Bill I’ve seen the tired Bill the next morning at breakfast!!
Since accepting Bill’s invitation, I have done lots of mental writing, (like mental planning I always did at work), and that has taken me quite a long time intermixed with can I do this? I have come to the conclusion I can and I am!
Why did I go on The Way? I went because my sister Jules and brother-in-law Peter rang and said that there were some spots still and would Ken (my wonderful husband), and I like to join them with the small group walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.We said yes quite quickly and before we knew it, we were thrust into a world of hiking boots, backpacks, walking clothes, bamboo socks and merino wool underwear!!
We started training with walking poles in the heat of summer that can only be found in Queensland and thought that nothing could be as bad weather wise in Portugal and Spain! After buying 2 pairs of walking boots and paying the Podiatrist lots of money for shoe inserts I was relatively ready for the Camino challenge, at least gear wise.
A big part of me was worrying about whether I could walk the long kilometres everyday and whether I could walk up the hills!! Was I fit enough? Another preparation was reading Bill’s book, “The Way, My Way” to get to know a bit about this fellow who had organised this walking tour. It was an entertaining read and I wondered whether pain was a part of the Camino. Bill certainly had plenty of it.
Discovering that Bills’ wife Jennifer read weird and wacky books like me had me overly excited, wow Jennifer was a like-minded person.
One of the questions I asked a couple of fellow travellers – Arleen and Steve at dinner the first night was,( good way to get to know them I thought), ‘Why do people walk the Camino?” I did not get a definitive answer! I heard that many pilgrims keep why they walk to themselves, many do not talk about why.
That gave me food for thought as I was tossed into a world of what mattered the most in life on the Camino and that was walking from one place to another, washing, drinking beer, sangria, wine, eating and sleeping.
What I found was that I actually could do the walking, even up the hills, I could drink coffee as small espresso shots (and this is someone who only drank latte) I could walk with the pain of terrible stingy blisters and very very sore feet and I could use the bushes when there was no bathroom along the tracks.
Donna takes credit for teaching me that little skill. What else I learned on The Way was the laughter, and conversation topics (like a coffee table picture book with Greg), the fun getting to know my companions, the importance of sharing everyone’s experiences, the increased level of caring for everyone as we all journeyed onwards together.
What I learned as we walked was to stop asking, how much further (we are all in the same boat), and not to talk about food so much. Feedback from Jules and Donna (at Changi Airport Singapore) has been processed.
What I also learned and valued was Catarina our lovely young driver of the support van who gave me some jump starts and who came to get me when I was lost one day and another memorable day when many of us pilgrims followed the wrong yellow arrows and needed a lift to the hotel.
I learned especially that we give on the Camino and help each other. Thank you Marie for helping me find a Podiatrist, and for speaking Spanish.
What did I learn from my journey on the Camino? No matter how much I tried to put into words what I got out of my journey, remembering what was said on that first night by Arlene and Steve, reading what my fellow travellers have said and what Bill says about the spirit of the Camino and the special bonding with the friends we make for a lifetime, I concluded that I cannot put into words what the Camino meant to me.
I only know that I have something inside me that was not there before; it is a beautiful feeling, a spiritual energy, a connection to The Way a bonding to my friends who walked with me and a deep desire to go back and walk the Camino again.
I
Last week I received an email from a firm asking me if I would consider putting advertising on this blog.
I was intrigued, so I asked for more information.
They claimed it would be discreet, and non intrusive – and I thought about it, because having an income stream would kind of offset the time I spend preparing each post.
Believe it or not, it takes me between an hour and two hours to do a post, what with preparing the photos, editing and refining the text etc. The posts might look simple, and read fast, but that’s because I put a lot of effort into making them so.
Anyway, I decided not to go with the advertising offer. My PGS told me not to.
It didn’t feel right.
I hope one thing which this blog offers is integrity, honesty, and transparency. You might not always agree with what I post here, and I’m sure that sometimes I annoy/anger/confuse/disappoint/outrage you. (Don’t mention the Burning Dwarf!)
However:
I must admit that I was a little chuffed at the offer of advertising – it means that this modest little blog is getting some attention out there.
But if I took on advertising then there’s an implicit contract – that I would have to keep my numbers up, or increase them – and that would then impact on what I write about.
I’d soon find I’d have to write stuff that was designed to increase traffic flow to the site – and so for me then the fun goes out of it. It becomes work. More than that, it becomes a manipulation. The transparency becomes cloudy.
I don’t write this blog for money. I do it because I like to, because I want to – and because I get to hang out with you cool bunch of people!
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