I am now trying to catch up on a bunch of posts relating to the last week, and my travels with my wife through Portugal following the Camino Portuguese.
However i thought I would just post this first – something strange which happened yesterday.
Cue the Twilight Zone theme…
We’d flown out of Porto to Frankfurt, where I picked up a rental car and drove about 75kms to a small town on the Rhine River, called Rudesheim. It was dark when we got in, and after a dinner of local food in a small restaurant we strolled around the town.
It was cold, and you could feel that soon, in the next few weeks possibly, snow would fall.
Even in the darkness we could see that the town was beautiful – dominated by a huge and ancient church with what looked to be a Russian shaped spire. I felt pulled to this church, for some reason, and wanted to go in, but it was closed.
The next morning, after a breakfast of beautifully baked German breads and MilchKaffee, we made our way back to the church. Again it looked closed, but I leaned on the heavy metal door and it opened.
Inside it was sparse, unlike some of the more ornate Spanish and Portuguese churches I’d been in lately. The church had been built in the 12th century, but had been bombed during the second world war, and rebuilt. But it still contained some of its original relics.
I sat in the pews at the back, and couldn’t understand what had so compelled me to come here, to this town, to this church.
As I sat there, the church bells peeled 11 o’clock. I closed my eyes and meditated, and allowed these soft mantric sounds to seep into my being. I cannot describe the feeling.
i walked outside and something caught my eye – something on the wall outside.
A Camino symbol!
It was a Church of St. James, and as it turned out it was on a Camino from Frankfurt, part of the German Jakobswege, connecting through to Reims, Paris, and then down through Tours.
How is it that when I was trying to figure out an itinerary through Bavaria, my PGS led me to this town on the German Camino, and to this church.
I don’t understand it.