Today was another long day – 39 kms. But I really wanted to get to Leon.
I love this city.
I was here two years ago with my wife, looking at the pilgrims clustered in an old cobblestoned courtyard near an ancient church, and I wanted to be one of them, one day.
Today I was.
I left El Burgo Ranero early this morning. I'd stayed in a beautiful little hostal that was only marginally more expensive than the communal albergues in the town, but what made it special was the matron who ran the place. She greeted me with such genuine warmth and affection, and then took my laundry and washed it, hung it out to dry, and insisted on no payment.
This kind of generosity of spirit permeates the Camino.
As I was walking into Leon this afternoon, an elderly man, all dressed up in his Sunday best, approached me. As he got closer he tipped his hat, in a mark of respect – presumably because I'm on a pilgrimage.
I felt truly touched by this small but significant gesture.
Anyway, I left at 7am, before sunrise again, knowing that this would be my last day on the Meseta. I knew I had a long day ahead of me, but I wasn't in any rush.
When I'm steaming, I do about 4 kms / hr. That's fairly slow. Most times i average about 3.5 kms / hr. That's geriatric. I've said it before, but EVERYONE passes me.
Actually, I retract that. I did pass someone yesterday. For the first time since starting the Camino. I felt really chuffed. I saw this person up ahead, and realised that if we continued at our relative speeds, that in about 15 minutes I would pass them.
Which I did do.
As I passed this person, I looked across and realised that they must have been at least 80 years old, and needing life support.
Still, it goes down in the record books regardless.
Today was hard work – not because of the mileage. It was the wind. I had four layers on till about 2pm. The wind was strong and bitterly cold. The temp was about 7-8C. But the wind was debilitating.
Most of my walking mates dropped off at Mansilla de las Mulas, after about 19kms. I wanted to keep going. I wanted to get to Leon. It was another 20kms.
I regard anything less than 20 kms a day as a “pussy” walk. So far I've only had one pussy walk day. That was yesterday, after the 41 km day.
I should explain that “pussy” in Australian parlance is different from the US meaning, which is a bit rude. Pussy in Australian slang means “sissy.” In Australia if you want to cast aspersions on a bloke's masculinity, you'd either call him a pussy, or a “big girl's blouse.” Same thing.
So, I've had one pussy walk day. I didn't want to have another two. So I just joined the two pussies together – 19kms & 20 kms – and there you have it – today's pussy free day.
I felt sad leaving the Meseta. To me it's been the highlight of the Camino so far. It was where my pain left me. It was where I shifted into another realm.
The space, the metronomic quality of the walking, the way the light was always changing. It loosened things held tight inside me. It enabled me to disassociate thoughts. I haven't used an iPod on this walk. I've wanted to be totally in my thoughts. The Meseta gave me the space, the solitude, the resonance to think about those three questions that keep arising for me:
- Who am I?
- What am I doing here?
- What really matters?
People talk of the Meseta being boring. I didn't find it so. For me, the country was changing every hundred meters or so. The light was always changing. There were always different sounds. Different colours. The perspectives were always in a constant state of flux.
I loved it.
I became strong on the Meseta.
If that story that Ivan the Terrible told me is true – that an Italian Priest told him the first part of the Camino is your life, the Meseta is your death, and from Leon to Santiago is your rebirth, then I can understand that. The Meseta for me was transcendent. It was like shifting into another dimension.
I'll miss it, and when in later years I think back on my Camino, probably my most vivid memories will be of the Meseta.
I have a rest day in Leon tomorrow. And I will do a post tomorrow reflecting on my thoughts so far.
I'm loving this walk…
PGS - The Way 
Bill, As always your outlooks and attitudes, not to mention your photography are great and insightful. Love following you. You, who live across the planet from me, have inspired me and by being inspired by you, I have started my own blog. Practicing now in hopes of being able to manage it like you do by the time I begin the Camino on June 16th. Thanks for sharing and thanks for the inspiration. It is a small world and connections are not limited by distance.
Steve
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Steve, that’s wonderful, thank you!
My blog is an attempt for me to try and make sense out of what I’m doing. And my photography enables me to look at everything around me with greater clarity.
I’m touched that you would get inspiration from it, thank you.
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PS: My wife started her own blog also, so it will be reflections of two different perspectives.
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That’s a great idea! These blogs are for ourselves. If others get something from it, then I consider that a bonus! Send me a link when ypunhave them both up and running – would love to follow you two. Bill
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My husband and I are planning our camino for August – September and finding your blog very enlightening. Can’t wait everyday to read your updates. I have knee pain sometimes when I walk (age 66) and am trying to break in new hiking/walking shoes so have gotten a few blisters. Are you going on to Finisterre or Muxia? I don’t want your blog to end.Believe I read that you are going to do a separate blog on food on the camino. Are you doing that yet or will that be when you get home?
Lynda & Dale
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Hi Lynda, all the preparation you’re doing will be worth it. Bu read my section on Thoughts & Preparations. You’ll see that I did everything right (I think!) but still had probs. Ah, that’s part of it.
Nope, not going to Finisterra or Muxia. Went there two years ago and don’t feel I need to go back. And I won’t do a separate blog on the food, just a post with some pics, which I’ve been collecting most meals.
You and your husband will have a wonderful time, I’m sure. Bill
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Hi Lynda, all the preparation you’re doing will be worth it. Bu read my section on Thoughts & Preparations. You’ll see that I did everything right (I think!) but still had probs. Ah, that’s part of it.
Nope, not going to Finisterra or Muxia. Went there two years ago and don’t feel I need to go back. And I won’t do a separate blog on the food, just a post with some pics, which I’ve been collecting most meals.
You and your husband will have a wonderful time, I’m sure. Bill
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Hi Bill. I’m Joe who has learned of your blog from my wife, Nancy. We will start our Camino from Burgos in mid May. We sincerely thank you for sharing your experiences on the Camino. Your skill as a writer, photographer and abundant sense of humor has brought us both to laughter and tears. We view you as a gift and blessing. We wish you continued health and safe travels. Eagerly awaiting your next post! Warmest regards, Joe and Nancy
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Hey Joe – your wife Nancy has been truly lovely with some of her comments, and thank you too for saying what you’ve said just now. I very much appreciate it. The blog and the photos help me try and make sense of it all, and it pleases me immensely that others like you and your wife are getting something from it too!
Again, my thanks.
Bill
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Hi Bill,
Another Bill. I live in Alstonville NSW. I have come in late with your stories, photos and graphic illustrations of your journey. Totally fascinating! Thanks for giving us the message of the importance of the Camino and the pilgrimage.
your photos and writings are most enlightening. At 76 with a back problem I am probably a bit late to follow in your footsteps, but having given up running and now swimming there is still hope yet for me for a longer life and continued fitness. I guess the question that I ask of you is how you are affected spiritually by the walk and the ordeal you have had to live with ( blisters, knee, fatigue etc.) Does it connect you to thoughts of an after life ? I assume that is why it is called the pilgrims walk.
Take care and arrive safely! Bill
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Thank you Bill. Don’t be put off by your age. I’m astonished at the age of some people doing the Camino, and mostly they leave the young kids in their dust! Also you don’t have to do the whole thing in one hit. You can do it in stages.
I met a lady yesterday, she was from Australia and she was 68. I would have sworn she was in her mid 50s, because of her vitality. The Camino makes you younger! Bill
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The space and light in this set of photos is unique, from the terminator line lurking behind the powerlines to the blue shadows in the footpath along the trees leading the way ahead. Seems like the horizon line receded when you got up on the Meseta. Nice shooting pilgrim!
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Again, thanks! Bill
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