My walking sticks. They're my new best friend. Now I have three new best friends – my boots, my backpack, and my walking sticks.
I have resolutely refused to adopt sticks – I have seen these pilgrims using them, and I've thought they look like stick insects. Well, I've now joined the colony.
They're fantastic. Why didn't someone tell me about them before?
Well, actually they did but I liked my staff – it had style. It had romance. Those stick insect things were too technical. And they made that sound on cobblestones – clack clack clack. Like something with an exoskeleton crushing its mandibles.
Man o man they're good. They haul you up hills, and they act as a brake coming down hills. They supposedly take 25 – 30% load weight off your legs, and transfer it to the upper body.
I needed them today.
I woke early, after my rest day in Plampona. I got 7 hrs sleep – the first decent sleep since I've been away, which means the jet lag is finally gone. I left the Albergue at 6am, and quickly adapted to using the sticks. The sun doesn't come up here at the moment till about 7:30am, so the first hour and a half was in the dark.
I left the suburbs of Plampona fast – doing about 5kms/hr, thanks not only to the sticks but also the lighter backpack. 1.75kgs makes a big difference.
Soon Alto del Perdon loomed ahead – by this stage I'd already done about 10kms, and began the climb. My knee was twinging, but holding up ok, thanks in large part to the sticks, which enabled me to keep a lot of weight off. The Nurofen was also working too – and I very soon got to the top.
Going down the other side was harder – very steep with loose stones and rocks. Put a lot of pressure on the knees, but again the sticks helped.
There weren't many people on the path today – some Korean girls, and a few Germans. Once I got down the other side of the mountain I stopped in at small place to have breakfast – the most delicious fried eggs and slices of pork, with crunchy chips and a bowl of pimento soup – all for the princely sum of €8.
I then walked through to Puenta la Reina – a beautiful medieval town. By this stage it was 12:30pm – I'd been walking 6 and a half hours, and had covered about 23 kms.
I found a little pub off the main square and had a half roast chicken, and 4 local ciders. I forgot that ciders in this part of the world are quite alcoholic, so I got a bit pissed. And I still had another 10kms to walk.
Everyone in the pub was watching the formula 1 Grand Prix. They love their sport in Spain.
I then pushed on to this little hilltop town – Ciraqui- – by this stage it was very hot, I had a gutful of roast chicken and 4 alcoholic ciders, and needless to say the last section was a bit of a slog, made more so by a gnarly hill of Mt. Misery proportions. It was hard going.
I'm now in this little Albergue opposite the towns church. €10 a night, and €9 for the evening meal. The laundry facilities leave a bit to be desired, but hey –
My knee is swollen so I'm icing it now, before dinner. It did 33 hard kms today, which was a bit naughty of me pushing it like that, but I wanted to walk after the rest day.
I might take it easier tomorrow –
But then again, maybe I won't. Maybe I'll get to know my new best friend a little more…















Am enjoying your blog and your style of writing. I shall be following in your footsteps – leaving home tomorrow morning and starting from SJPP with my daughter on Tuesday. The weather is looking good. Buen camino, I am looking forward to your future posts. Maggie
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Thanks Maggie – the first couple of days are hard going, but you’ll do it. You and your daughter will have a wonderful time! Safe travels!
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Maggie, you might be aware of a terrific blog by a woman who is doing the camino with two daughters. It’s http://www.girlsontheway.com
If you haven’t seen it, it might be useful
She doesn’t though have my irreverent wit… 🙂
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Have also been following girls on the way. My daughter are slightly more mature, Ella was thirty this year and it was her idea to walk the camino to celebrate. Neither of us have been walkers, but I at least have been doing lots of training. Ella seems to think her relative youth will see her through – I sincerely hope she’s right. I have also been posting to a blog, but unfortunately I don’t have your level of wit either, so I doubt you would find it very interesting. ( but just in case, it can be seen at Magwood.wordpress.com). Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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Thanks – I look forward to following your journey!
Youth doesn’t always guarantee an injury free camino, but there are lessons for us all whilst doing it, and I’m sure for a long time afterwards too.
I hope you both have a great time! I’m sure you will.
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Greetings tour leader of the armchair travelers. I am thoroughly enjoying the trip although I would have liked to experience the last 10kms of day 5 in person in order to have a visual of how you and your cider fueled sticks traveled. Breathtaking photos, I eagerly await day 6.
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Thanks Vida – ah that Basque cider packs a punch! Glad you’re enjoying the posts! Bill
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Thanks Vida! Those pesky Basques put some punch in their sidre! The pics are snaps only – jpegs straight out of a small sensor camera without cropping or post. But they at least provide a record of where I’ve been and what I’ve seen. I hope you continue to enjoy the posts!
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Just found your blog and it is great. You are sure pushing hard but maybe a bit less mileage so your knee has a chance to heal? I have also been reading girls on the way and it is amazing. They seem to be hitting some warmer weather in Galicia and Trish nearly melted. Hopefully it will not get too hot for you. Buen Camino, peregrino.
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Thanks Juan. Yes, less mileage yesterday would have been sensible. I’ve never been known to embrace that personal trait however…
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